원정 개요

Abandoned attempt on A-II on 2 Oct, then turned attention to A-IV and abandoned attempt on 10 Oct.

72 hours snow BC, C1, C2 and C3 destroyed. Still C4 made after storm of late Sept. Reached 7300m and then strong wind made it impossible to continue. Eugenio Faggion and Rolando Menardi reached this point on 9 Oct, a day after C4 established at 6900m.

BC 4 Sept - 3850m
C1 8 Sept - 5305m
C2 17 Sept - 5825m
C3 23 Sept - 6400m
C4 9 Oct - 6900m

Route NW Ridge, not difficult technically. Expected to reach summit before 10 Oct but snow and wind defeated effort.

Abandoned 10 Oct at 7300m. 9 Oct C4 made by Eugenio Faggion, Rolando Menardi and Gianni Tamiozzo.

Some left BC rest, others are in BC today all well.


Bergamaschi - 22 Aug 81

Route will be same from northwest as British 1960 and 1978 perhaps, depending on state of ice. Want north wall to West Ridge and from Col on Ridge to summit.

Approach from Pisang to glacier lost A4 and A2.

BC at 4000m. 5 camps above BC with last camp on Col at 7400m; thence climb to summit.

Route not so easy because no success since 1973 and ice wall of West Ridge condition not known.

No Sherpas above BC.
Medical oxygen only.
Leave KTM for Dumre 25 Aug and arrive BC after 13 days about 6-8 Sept.
Summit 5-10 Oct, nearly 8000m.