원정 개요

BC at Annapurna Sanctuary
High point at East Pillar.

2m+ snow at BC where team arrived there; almost continuous bad weather till 8th May. 1st 2 days very heavy snowfall continued. Most days snow began at midday. 5th May put C2 in place and down to C1 with the plan to go back up next day. Had lot of illness amongst members. 3 times one member went to C1 to go up to C2 but never was able to make it and Griffin had to go below BC with chest infection. C2 actually first occupied on 7 May and in next days were getting supplies up in order to go for summit from there. 4 members went up to C1 14 May for summit bid, 2 ill and down and 2 actually got to C2 and then also down on 15th. Weather still not settled and 1 of them left BC 19th.

On 11 May high point of 6000m had been reached on 1st route. 1st route's pillar had apparently been tried before and locals said a tent had been found which had been placed by 3 Japanese who were never seen again. Route in bad condition till end of climbing period and illness meant could seldom get more than two on mountain at same time.

Griffin and Tinker tried alpine-style go at the Japanese route: started from BC on 19th and climbed at night, only time weather cleared and reached 5800m 21st night, sat there because of snowfall and 22nd to BC.