원정 개요

Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2013 led by Dean Staples

Two members of the expedition were semi-indepedent: Mike Roberts, a veteran Adventure Consultants Everest leader, and his personal client, Jose Luis Davilla. They had their own time table and a Sherpa assigned to them, but they were somewhat dependent on the main Everest team under Dean Staples' leadership, and when Roberts' client left early, Roberts and their Sherpa stayed on, summited Everest, and went over to Lhotse, on which another Adventure Consultants expedition was climbing under the leadership of Guy Cotter.

Expedition personnel summited Everest on four dates. First were four Sherpas who joined other expeditions men in fixing ropes, and they completed the job to the summit on 10 May. They were Dawa Jangbu, Kami Rita, Pemba Chhoti and Sange Dorje, each of whom had been to the top seven or more times before [Kami Rita and Sange Dorje summited, Dawa Jangbu and Pemba Chhoti went to C3 in support].

The next was Michael Roberts, who summited on the 19th with Tendi Sherpa. Then Mark Whetu, a professional cameraman, making a film of the climb, went to the top on 20 May with two Sherpas, Lhakpa Dorje and Ang Phurba.

Finally it was the turn of a larger group of members and Sherpas, although by now some members had dropped out. Cross fell and broke her hand while moving through the Icefall on 17 April. Davilla left in early May with a sore foot and for other reasons. Mariusson left on 10 May because he was not acclimatizing to Khumbu's high altitude.

On 21 May nine members and 18 Sherpas went to the summit. The successful members were Bradey, Crane, Gissuarsson, Gower, Hall, Josef Hochmeister, Lukas Hochmeister, Staples and Stromstadt. With them were Ang Gelu, Ang Ngwang, Chhewang, Chhuldim, Chhuldim Dorje, Dawa Jangbu (again), Datuk Bhote, Dendi, Kaji, Kami Rita (again), Lhakpa, Mingmar, Pemba Chhoti (again), Phurba Chhoter, Phurba Tenji, Phur Temba, Rinji and Sange Dorje (again). This group summited around 6 am.

[Note: Crane, Hall, Chhuldim Dorje, Kami Rita, Sange Dorje reported to have summited at 4:15 am.]

All members and Sherpas were back in BC on the 23rd.

[After summiting Everest, Staples and Stromstadt returned to C4, rested for 16 hours, then summited Lhotse at 10 am on May 22.]

The members were on bottled oxygen from C3 to the top and back to C3. The Sherpas followed the usual Sherpa pattern, from C4 to summit to C4.

Sherpa Summiters:
Ang Gelu Sherpa, 28/4/86, Phedi-9, Khotang, Everest X3
Ang Ngwang Sherpa [aka Nawang Shera, 10/1/88 (26/9/2044), Sanam, Gudel-4, Solu]
Ang Phurba Sherpa, 25/11/85, Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Everest X1, Manaslu X2
Chhewang Rinzing Sherpa [2/8/71, Taksindu]
Chhuldim Sherpa, 26/11/63, Khumjung, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X6
Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, 24/4/713, Pangboche, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X1
Datuk Bhote, 20/10/88, Chepuwa-4, Makalu, Everst X1
Dendi Sherpa, 32 years old, Taksindu, Solu
Kaji Sherpa
Kami Rita Sherpa, 22/10/77, Thami, Everest X11
Lhakpa Sherpa, 20/6/75, Sotang-6, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 16/11/61, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X4,
Lhotse X1, Kang X1, Makalu X3
Mingmar Sherpa, Taksindu, Solu
Namgyal Sherpa, 25/9/71, Khiraunle, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X4
Pasang Bhote, 19/5/86, 30/11/73, Chepuwa, Makalu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X5
Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, 25/11/72, Thami, Everest X9
Phurba Chhoter Sherpa [20/08/1971, Yilajung]
Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, 26/5,88, Pangboche, Khumbu
Phurba Tenji Sherpa
Phur Temba Sherpa [24/6/89, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun]
Rinji Sherpa, 26/7/75, Gorakhani-5, Solu, Everest X1
Sange Dorje Sherpa, 14/4/78, Khumjung, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X2
Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu, Everest X1


Mike Roberts and Tendi Sherpa on both Everest and Lhotse:

Roberts and Davila went to the bergschrund on 1st acclimatization rotation. They wanted to touch C3 on 28 April, but the rope fixing was stopped due to a fight between Ueli Steck and Simone Moro and Sherpas. Once back at BC, Davila had foot pain due to bad boots; on top of that he had to go back to Venezuela for political reasons. He never went back up. Roberts decided to stay and climb Everest and Lhotse.

Roberts and Tendi Sherpa had arrived at the South Cl on 17th May at around 12:30 pm, intending to summit on the 18th May. However, the winds were too high and they decided to wait for another night. On 18 May, they left at 7:30 pm with a lot of other people. They passed about 60 people in the first half hour. It was a calm night and a straightforward climb. The summited at 1:30 am and spent about half an hour on the summit trying to get a flash picture on the summit, but it did not work out. They descended to the South Col, where they arrived at 4:30 am and stayed there until 20th May at 6:30 am. During his time at the South Col, Mike Roberts was trying to help mobilise Sherpas for the rescue of Mr. Lee from Taiwan, who was at C4 on Lhotse.

Roberts and Tendi left the South Col at 6:30 am on 20 May to get to C4 of Lhotse where they arrived at about 7:45 am. They joined Kenton Cool, who had been trying to save the life of the Taiwanese climber, Mr. Lee, however, when Tendi and Roberts arrived, he had just died. Roberts went back down to the junction, where he had left a duffle bag and sorted out some gear and left the junction at 8:30 am to go for the summit. He stopped at Cool's camp for a drink and left 5 minutes ahead of Cool.

Lhotse summit: 20 May at 12:45 pm by Roberts and Tendi Sherpa.

They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was very cloudy and they could not see much. They descended to the junction, where they repacked their duffle bag again and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. The following day BC.

Oxygen:
C3 to Everest summit to South Col to Lhotse summit to C3 by Roberts and
Tendi Sherpa

Sherpa:
Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu