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Chilean Expedition to Dhaulagiri 1

Dhaulagiri I · 1989 · 봄 (1) · Chile

원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 none
C2 at C2 normal site - NE Col
C3 at 50m above start of NE Ridge
C4 at end of snow ridge and 100m below start of traverse
High point at top of snow ridge.

On 6th May [Purto and Casassa] down from C3 at 6400m to C2 because cloudy, snowing and windy; leader Purto to BC, other 2 climbers [Casassa and Ang Phurba] in C2. 9th May one member [Valle] up to meet Casassa in C2 and on up to C3 and then retreated because bad weather. 10th May 2 members [Valle and Casassa] to C4 (Purto not well enough now to go up) and 11th May up only 20m and down to C2. Climb finished because few climbers now too tired to continue. Arrived BC 14th May.

Casassa decided he was finished, Valle wanted to try again but Purto not strong enough and Sherpas didn't want to go up. Had already had 3 attempts for summit and needed time to recover.

  • 내부 원정 ID797
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA189103
  • 대장Mauricio Purto
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7170m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Mauricio Ramon Purto ArabChileLeader/Exp Doctor---
Gino CasassaChileClimber---
Giorgio CattoniChileClimber---
Rodrigo MujicaChileClimber---
Italo Carlo Valle BottariChileClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Purto, Mauricio · 1989 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Everest, La Ruta LogicaPurto, Mauricio · 1989 · 단행본 (1) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199025104/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt · 1989 · 웹사이트 (5) ·