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Giripremi Lhotse Everest 2013

Everest · 2013 · 봄 (1) · India

원정 개요

The five-member team reached C3 on the West Face of Lhotse on 14 May. From there, Mane with two Sherpas, Lhakpa Dorje and Pasang, went for the summit of Lhotse while the other four members went to the South Col and their C4 there for Everest. Mane and his Sherpas made the final camp for Lhotse at 7800m on 15 May, left the camp at 2:00 am the next day (the 16th) and summited at 7:24 am. They descended to C2 in the Western Cwm (6500m) at 3:00 pm.

Meanwhile on the 16th the other members, Harse, Mali, More and Zirpe, plus five Sherpas were poised in their C4 at the South Col at 8:00 pm that evening for Everest's summit. But Zirpe decided not to make a summit bid because of the wind; he did not go above C4, and one Sherpa, Pemba Rinzi, stayed with him; they went down to C2. The rest of their summit party went up to the top at 7:45 am and returned to C4 at 1:00 pm. They were Harshe, Mali, More, Kami, Nurbu, Dakipa and Dawa Gyalzen. They encountered strong wind on a clear day.

Everyone was back in BC on the 18th. Zirpe and Kami flew to Kathmandu by helicopter because Kami fell from C3 for 15-20 feet down the West Face of Lhotse on the 17th. No bones were broken, but he was so badly bruised that he could not stand up; he spent that night in hospital, by the 22nd had fully recovered.

Oxygen:
Used by members climbing above C3 to their summits and back to (but not in) C4.
The Sherpas were on oxygen from C4 to their summits to and in C4.

Sherpas:
Dakipa Sherpa, 6/12/83, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest X2
Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, 21/8/87, Chheplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X3
Kami Sherpa, 28/8/62, Bagam, Kerung, Solu, Everest X10, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaula X1
Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81, Hatiya-1, Makalu, Everest X5
Pemba Rinzi Sherpa, 10/1/76, Bishinga, Okhaldhunga, Everest X3, Dhaula X13

  • 내부 원정 ID7968
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER13106
  • 대장Umesh Zirpe
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 10명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Umesh Mallikarjun ZirpeIndiaLeader-사용-
Bhushan Uday HarsheIndiaClimber성공사용-
Anand Shivling MaliIndiaClimber성공사용-
Ashish Sharad ManeIndiaClimber---
Ganesh Krishna MoreIndiaClimber성공사용-
Nurbu Bhote LamaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dakipa (Dawa Kipa) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dawa Gyalzen/Gyaljen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Kami (Kame) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Rinzi/Rinji SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-

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