원정 개요

BC 14 Apr 5350m
C1 19 Apr 6000m
C2 23 Apr 6400m
C3 29 Apr 7300m
C4 10 May 7900m
Smt 11 May by David Liano Gonzalez and Samden Bhote at 8:05 am.

On the 9th and 10th of May, a large Sherpa crew begun to fix all the route to summit, from C2 to the Balcony on the 9th, from C4 to the summit on the 10th.

David Liano started to climb on the 9th of May, reaching C4 on the 10th where he didn't sleep, climbing all night from 11 pm and summiting the day after at 8:05 am (9 hours up). He spent about 1/2 hour on the summit and was back the same day at C2 around 6:30 pm. The day after, David Liano left C2 at 5 am for BC then flew back to Kathmandu by helicopter (arrival around 3 pm).

David Liano reports he and his Sherpa had no tracks remaining from the Sherpa team before them, having knee-deep snow from 150 meters below the Balcony up to the summit (the section from South Summit to the top was completely covered with snow, rendering it much easier). WNW wind was quite strongly blowing all the time above C4, in an average of 50/60 km/h up to 80 km/h speed (wind gusts).

He didn't see any Sherpa team coming from Tibet side on the 11th of May (they should have done officially the same then on south side that day for putting fixed rope).

According to the weather forecast (wind should dramatically decrease from 15th of May), Melissa Arnot should summit around 16th of May, then most of the team should follow between 17 and 19th of May. However two people tried to summit today (from Himalayan Guides).

David Liano holds a Spanish passport allowing him to be insured in case of emergency, as there is absolutely no official consulate or embassy in Kathmandu for Mexico.

On 13 April David Liano planned to travel to Tibet via Kodari to join north side Everest base camp. He plans to summit around 19th and should be back in Kathmandu around 24/25 May.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C2 by Liano
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Samden

Sherpa:
Samden Bhote, Hatiya, Makalu Barun, 25/07/1979