원정 개요

BC on west side of Lhotse Glacier
C1 at saddle between Island Peak and Lhotse/Lhotse Shar
C2 on SE Buttress
C3 on face from Buttress
xxx at C3.

Arizzi and Cormier unable to go to C2 and left early. Took only safe line by going far to right onto SE Buttress. Alpine style in good clear weather without snow on face is safe direction. Messner put C2 - made an intermediate camp which at end was called C3. Messner had hoped to place C3 at 7500m and from there for attempt on summit with one bivouac at 7800-8000m. At beginning almost all sick with only 2 Poles and Kammerlander working. Lost a week to 10 days here and when bad weather came at 13 May were not in position. Profit and Kammerlander went up to C3 after Messner and 2 Sherpas had placed summit gear at this camp.

Profit and Kammerlander started from BC 10 and 12 May to C3 on 13th for summit push on 15th. Profit in early May had done to traverse left from C3 with Hajzer and they reached to Polish route. On 13th night snowfall began and Profit and Kammerlander down to BC. Now every day fell.

2 Poles [Hajzer and Wielicki] started from BC on 12 May up Polish route, carrying all gear and did approx 500m/day and in 4 days reached 7100m on this route but now weather stopped them, did risky traverse to C3, where slept night of 16th and to BC on 17th.

Lucas and Profit tried again via SE Buttress. Left BC 18th in slightly better weather. On 19th in C3. Lucas tired and down immediately; Profit tried traverse but too much snow there and he also down. Neither slept C3. Was again snowing and reached clear and windy weather for 3-4 days to clear it.


Cormier - 29 Apr 89

Left Lhotse expedition BC on 24 April because too much fighting amongst members. Face has no snow and is very windy. Route is via Lhotse Shar with long traverse above 7200m to Lhotse Face Polish route. Route too long and not interesting.