원정 개요

Trip started on Sept 29 in Kathmandu, flew Paphlu on Oct 2.
Acclimatization trek via Panch Pokhari and summit Mera Central (6470m) on Oct 16.
Arrived Baruntse BC (5450m) on Oct 19
C1 on West Col (6100m) on Oct 22
C2 (6400m) on Oct 23
High point on Oct 24 and returned to BC
Departed BC on Oct 26 to Amphu Laptsa, Dingpoche, Namche and Lukla
Flew to Kathmandu on Nov 2
Trip concluded on Nov 4

When we arrived at BC on Oct 19 nobody had yet summited Baruntse. As far as I know German, Japanese and Austrian expeditions were in BC at that time. Most had managed to reach a large crevasse at around 6900m on the South Ridge, but the route beyond that point was very difficult; steep, heavily corniced and very poor snow conditions.

Our Sherpas managed to fix this difficult section but on the morning of our summit attempt we were hit by severe wind gusts in C2 (80km +) and were unable to move up. All of our contingency days had been used up and so I had no choice but to descend.

No oxygen was used.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Tamang, Lura, Solu, Ama Dablam summit, Cho Oyu attempt
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Phakding, Everest, Cho Oyu, Baruntse, etc
Nawang Sherpa
Bikash Rana (Trainee)
Tsering Lama (Trainee)

The three primary Sherpas reached an altitude of 7000m as they were fixing the rope, but abandoned it due to bad weather.


Soren Ledet (email to Billi)

Murray and Ledet reached 6700m however the weather was bad and the conditions on the mountain were difficult. Soren, who was the expedition leader, told him to go back.

Other members:

Marriott reached 6600 on 24 Oct and turned back due to bad weather and conditions.

Townsden to 6400m (C2) on 23 Oct; he was unwell and descended to BC.

Kirsty McHenry to 6400m (C2) on 23 Oct; happy with high point and descended to BC.

Jay to 6400m (C2) on 23 Oct; happy with high point and descended to BC.

Gillman reached Kare at 5000m on 14 Oct; she had HACE and 3 blood clots and was evacuated by helicopter on 14 Oct.

Allen reached Kharikhola on 4 Oct; she had fallen on the approach trek and injured her lower back. She was evacuated by helicopter on 4 Oct.

Peck's highest point was Mera Peak on 16 Oct. His partner Debbie Gillman was evacuated with suspected HACE on October 14 from Khare. After summiting Mera Peak, he descended with the group to Kongma Dingma and had a scheduled rest-day on 17 Oct. He made contact with agent in Kathmandu on the 17 Oct and was advised Debbie's condition was very serious. He abandoned the expedition and left for Kathmandu on a helicopter on 18 Oct.