원정 개요

Translated from website of Jacques Marmet by Rodolphe Popier:

http://www.jacques-marmet.fr/index.php?p=seeactu&idac=69

This third expedition on this gorgeous mountain is half a success. I aimed to complete two challenges indeed:

First one was to establish a speed record ascent for the peak. This one is a complete success as from Kathmandu to the summit push I only needed 9 days (approach march/trekking included) whereas 18 days are normally necessary for the same program. I even managed to shorten the program I planned for myself, knowing to reduce at maximum the expedition time on a 7000er without getting AMS sickness and without using any medicine.

Second one was to reach the top. I organized this expedition alone with my friend Phurba Sherpa. For budget reasons, I had to participate to the carrying of the gear: tent, technical gear, gas, food, sleeping bag, etc., meaning Phurba was carrying 40 kg and me 20 kg. Until C1 we asked to our basecamp cook to help with carrying part of the gear. Day after our arrival to C1, we went straight to C2. Day after I took a day rest, whereas Phurba made a round trip to C1 to pick up some gear remnants left there.

Then we preferred not using C3, but to attempt to reach the summit straight from C2, in alpine style, with a very light bag for Phurba and only my camelbag for me with some proteins bars. We started at 1 am the day after for the top, but after 1 hour, the unexpected grain of sand went into the wheels of our machine: my headlamp collapsed, catching fire likely due to a shortcircuit? Trapped in a delicate mixed section within the night, without any moon =light, it was impossible to continue, so we instead turned back, renouncing to the summit a priori within reach!