원정 개요

BC at glacier northwest of Talung and southeast of point 5520m on Yoshino map
C4 below couloir which climbed.

After making C4, bad weather (snow and strong wind) so all down to BC. 2 days in BC, then 8th Oct to C1, 5 members and 2 Sherpas. 9th Oct 1st team to C4 and 2nd team to C3. 11th Oct 3 members and 2 Sherpas towards summit in strong cold wind (-25 degrees at C4). Sherpas turned back at 8100m and at 8300m a member hit by falling stone which penetrated his hat and down to C4 with a member to help him. Iriarte was ahead and unaware of Bereziartua's accident so carried on to summit, which reached at 1 pm. On 11th Urbieta arrived at C4 while others of 2nd team stayed in C3; climb finished now.

Others including Sherpas not in good condition, leader injured and weather not so good; many falling stones in couloir, route not technically difficult and safe to C4.

22 days to reach BC from Dharan because of earthquake damage to road and trails; 5 days to KTM from BC.