원정 개요

C2 at bivs above near top of Japanese Couloir
C3 below Hornbein Couloir (2 hours below, 3 tents)
High point at West Ridge.

From BC 6th Sept 1st summit bid and stopped at 8200m because very cold. Boyer, Chamoux, Campredon, Parmentier, Rakoncaj, Rossi, Sichap, Dorotei, Tournaire and 2 Sherpas so back to C3. Then down in bad weather.

Next summit bid 13th Sep from BC and got on 16th Sep to 8600m at 3 pm, too high for biv without frostbite with no oxygen; had no rope [Dorotei to 8300m, Boyer to 8450m, Rossi and Chamoux to 8650m, Rakonaj and Camredon to c8600m, Tournaire and Parmentier to c8600m].

Here technically difficult at W Ridge. Down to C3 on 16th and 3 of them to BC on 17th while Parmentier stayed in C3 with plan to solo to top in good weather. From 17th to 24th snow fall daily and very cold and windy (constant snow). Parmentier 17-18th in C3, 19th up and pitched small tent at 8200m, 20th up in Hornbein's deep snow. At 1 pm his track seen to 8400m, then cloudy and no further contact on sighting (21st briefly clear and even track not seen).

22nd up from BC Chamoux, Campredon and Rakoncaj in 3rd summit bid and C1 very windy and down to BC next day and climb finished. Last members on mountain left Chinese BC 27th. Snowfall had brought avalanche danger (which probably took Parmentier).


Lluis Belvis (Spanish Everest) - 20 Oct 1988 (regarding Parmentier's death)

Members of this expedition found Parmentier at 7700m about 50m beside his tent. They speculate that he had been unable to find the tent and froze to death (unable because of bad weather probably). Body found in early Oct.