원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C3 just below North Ridge
High point just below First Step.

Very strong wind above col and very cold. 2 members up to 8550m on 15th May in summit bid but cold wind forced retreat and couldn't continue because too many tents destroyed. C2 destroyed 8th May (was 1 tent) and C1 alredy destroyed and replaced by cave. The 2 members left ABC 12 May carrying 20 kg each of all gear needed for summit bid. Team left ABC 16th to leave Tibet and 18th from BC. All members brought their own tents, sleeping bags, etc "just like with Alps."

Lang tried to climb new way to N Ridge via couloir directly south of ABC (without going west to N Col and start of N Ridge). Lang was alone. Started from ABC 1 May and reached 7100m in couloir. 2 May got to 7600m and then weather changed dramatically: wind, snow and very cold and could occasionally be seen moving slowly. 3 May got to 7900m still in couloir; died at this biv. No one went to him because of weather. 7th May could again see his biv and a sitting fixed sleeping bag but face not visible. Have given 4 May as date of death but really didn't know when he died; he was good climber but too impatient to wait for good weather (had been to 8550m on Everest via S Col 2-3 years ago on international expedition, had succeeded on Gasherbrum I and II and was now trying to do the summit).