원정 개요

The expedition sent its members and Sherpas to the top in two parties, the first, eight members and seven Sherpas, on 25 May, and the second, five members and eight more Sherpas, on the following day.

The first group left C4 between 7:00 and 7:30 pm on the 24th. They summited between 4:00 am (Jalal, Linyu, Smitha, Pema Tsiring and Karma Gyalje and 9:30 am (Jamwal, Deepika Rathore, Sudhir Singh, Phujung Bhote, Na Dorje and Pasang Tenje) on 25 May; in between then were Jalal, Paldan, Namrata Rathore, Praveen Thapa, Chembi and Samgel. All of them descended to C2 between 2:00 and 7:30 pm that day and were in BC on the 26th.

Meanwhile the second summit party set out for the top from C4 at 8:00-8:30 pm on the 25th. Bhatnagar, Bisht, Gole, Negi, Sangwan, Lakche, Jamchang Bhote, Lhakpa Thendu, Dawa Nurbu, Mingma Tendu, Pasang Sherpa, Pekma Lama Bhote and Pima Tenjing Lama summited at 5:45-6:00 am of 26 May and returned to C2 at 3:45 pm. They were safely back in BC on the 27th. [Pekma Lama Bhote and Pima Tenjing Lama were with Toolika Rani].

Oxygen was used by all summiting members except Rajendra Singh Jalal, who did not use at all. The others used it from C3 to the top to C4 and slept on it the night of their return. Their summit Sherpas used it from C4 to the top and in C4.

Their sirdar, Dawa Ongchu, directed the Sherpas towards the end from C4, but he himself did not go to the summit (he had already been there four times), but went alone from C4 to Lhotse's summit on the 26th and back to C4 the same day.

Sherpa summiters (spellings by Sirdar Ongju):
Chembi Sherpa, 9/1/77, Makalu-9 [21/4/66 (9/1/2023)]
Dawa Nurbu, 24/11/78, Dobane-9, Bhojpur
Jamchang Bhote, 13/4/81, Hatiya
Karma Gyalje, 12/9/83, Makalu-9
Lakpa Thendu, 18/4/87, Makalu-9, Manaslu X1
Mingma Tendu, 18/6/75, Makalu-9
Nadorjee Sherpa, 19/12/75, Makalu-9
Pasang Sherpa, 28/7/87, Makalu-5
Pasang Tenje, 25/11/81, Makalu-9, Manaslu X1
Pekma Lama Bhote, 14/12/70, Hatiya-3 [climbed with Toolika Rani]
Pema Tshiring, 17/5/71, Makalu-9
Phujung Bhote, 31/5/79, Hatiya-1
Pima Tenjing Lama, 10/12/86, Hatiya-3 [climbed with Toolika Rani]
Samgel Sherpa, 28/3/72, Makalu-9
Lakche Sherpa [only listed on Rimo web site]

Lhotse summiter:
Dawa Ongju (widely known as Dawa Wangchuk), 17/12/72, Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9
Dhaulagiri X1, Everest X4, Kangchenjunga X3, Makalu X3


Note from IMG web site:

8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)