원정 개요

BC at road
C3 at standard site
C4 at North Col
C5 on North Ridge
C6 on North Face.

Second Step is quite steep ("no way Mallory and Irvine climbed that route") and someone had left the ladder there which was very helpful. Month of April (that many high winds and took long time to manage to put in C5) had 4 summit bids. [On 1st bid Simonson, Dunn, Politz, Sloezen, Ang Dawa and Lhakpa Dorje summited on 15 May.]

2nd one on 16th 4 members [Hahn, Huntington, Perry, Rheinberger] and 2 Sherpas [Ang Jangbu, Pasang Kami] got to First Step, turned back because of winds and all down except Perry, who stayed at C6 and summitted alone on 17th.

3rd group 6 members [Edwards, Frantz, Okita, Van Hoy, Whetu, Wilson] on 21st tried for top: Whetu and Okita went up to top with oxygen while other 4 without it turned back because of cold. Wilson was member of this 3rd group; stayed on at C6 three more nights and went to top alone on 24th, this time using oxygen and again one more night at C6.

15th May summiters in chronological order: US Wilcox party; Simonson and 6 in order shown above (Simonson 12:30 pm NST); Ed Viesturs from south, who met Politz already on top; Swedish expedition's Sherpas.

Lhakpa Dorje summited Everest with Canadians in 1982; this was Ang Dawa's first expedition to any mountain.

Much hypocracy about climbing Everest alpine style: Robert Anderson and Marcus Schmucks's team talked about their alpine-style climbing, but they were given food and oxygen by Simonson's team and they used his team's tents.