원정 개요

BC was placed on 9 December at 5200m at the bottom of SW Ridge just northeast of Kalapattar. C1 was pitched four days later part-way up the ridge on the glacier.

The site for C2 was to be at 6500m but it was never reached. On the 14th Mikhanovsaia stopped at 6000m because she was getting too cold. The three Sherpas went up to 6400m and then they also turned back: the very cold wind blowing at 60-70 mph made it dangerous for them to take their gloves off to fix the ropes. All of them retreated to BC that day.

The next day, the 15th, it became cloudy and therefore even colder. The team waited at BC for the wind to abate. But by now Mikhanovskaia had no energy (motivation?) left. But on the 18th the three Sherpas left BC at 7:00 am with the intention of fixing rope the last 100 meters to C2. But again the wind was too strong for them to geth higher than 6400m, and they brought C1 with them as they returned to BC at 7:00 pm. All had agreed that if the very strong wind was still blowing, they would abandon their climb.

They had fixed a small amount of rope, 20 meters, between BC and C1 and 280m above C1.

Sherpas:
Dawa Finjo Bhote, 5/9/88 (20/6/2045), Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X4
Dorje Sherpa, 1/1/65, Taksindu-5, Solu
Pasang Wangchu Sherpa, 25/4/87, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X3, Manaslu X1