원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Dropped loads at C3 22 April and then down to Pheriche for a week's rest as planned. 2nd May M Richey, Chauvin, Rugo and Wilcox reached C4. Evening of 1st and 2nd May 100 mph winds. 3rd May switched to "survival mode" and 2 frostbitten Australians taken into US tent and put them on oxygen; only about 11 am could descend and all down to C2, Then 1 week rest at BC.

9th May again up: Scott, Laforest, Sinclair, Wilcox, M Richey and Rugo to C2 (Chauvin turned back to BC tired from C1, others stayed at C2). Richey, Scott, Wilcox, Rugo, Laforest and Tshering Lhakpa left with them for summit (3 other Sherpas also, in support carrying loads). Sinchair to C3 only and Tshering Lhakpa turned back just above C3. Wilcox, Richey, Rugo and Laforest on C4 at 4 pm, assumed Scott had turned back, but at midnight had radio contact with BC and learned Scott had not arrived at any camp. Foursome had planned to go to top that night but now turned attention to finding Scott, who turned out to be lost at top of Geneva Spur and got him to C4 on oxygen and postponed summit attempt by one day; were really tired anyway so spent day resting using oxygen occasionally all day. Scott down on 14th. Midnight of 14th 4 left C4 in excellent weather for top while Sinclair up to C4 on 15th. Was still clear and low winds when got to top. Rugo ran out of oxygen in descent and arrived at C4 only at 6:00 pm and Wilcox at 7:00 pm, when wind and clouds had started closing in.