원정 개요

Syaokang (5960m)

24 Oct: the team did a reconnaissance of the Ice Fall of the East Face from C2, finding two possible routes.

25 Oct: entire team started from C2 for summit at 7 am; at 5500m John Nankervis having AMS had to abandon and came back to C2; the other 5 members summited at 3:30 pm and went back to C2 at 7 pm.

The mountain altitude measured by two members of the team are: 6070m and 6036m, for 5960m officially (Ministry) [and 5929m on HMG-Finn map]. The team believes they did the first ascent of the North Peak of Syaokang (which summit area would include 2 other peaks)

26 Oct: entire team was back to the BC.


Chaw (6404m)

John Nankervis stayed at the same BC to recover from his AMS, so did not climb on Chaw at all.

29 Oct: the team established C1 at 5100m.
30 Oct: the team established C2 at 5500m.
31 Oct: the team established C3 at 5700m.

01 Nov: the team couldn't find a way through the icefall preceding Yangma La (5720m) and went back to the C3.

02 Nov: the team started again at 8 am from C3. Nick Shearer went back this day to the base camp, stopping at the bergschrund of the Icefall. The 4 remaining members found a way through the 25m icefall, reached Yangma La (5720m) then came up to 6000m on the NW Ridge of Chaw (1 pm), where they decided to turn back. Knowing that they wouldn't have enough time for the return march, the team knew at this moment that the expedition was finished. They all went back to C2 the same day at 6 pm.

03 Nov: entire team was back at the BC and day after left for Taplejung.