원정 개요

BC at Rongbuk.

De Marchi and De Stefani in 1st summit attempt made biv 7950m 4th May and on 5th reached 8350m and put camp there. 6th May stayed at C4 and on 7th De Stefani got cerebral edema and down that day with help from others. 8th reached C2 with De Stefani barely conscious. 9th to C1, 10th to Swedish ABC and their doctor (De Marchi exhausted and both feet frostbitten; De Stefani also frostbitten toes and will loose parts of 2 fingers). 11th Tibetans carried De Stefani to BC and Jeep took him and Thomaseth (to help him all the way to Italy) while De Marchi stayed at ABC few days longer.

On 14th May Banali and Sulovsky to C2, 15th to C3, 16th C4 and same evening fixed 40m above it. 17th left C4 7 am, took 2 hrs on 70m of rocks above (3m of it took most of this time: vertical rock) and Sulovsky on top 3:25 pm and Banali 15-20 minutes later. Weather clear till 2 pm when clouds came over and on top was snowing but no wind; 7 pm back to C4 and on down to C3 at 11 pm with only one ice ax between them (one dropped during ascent). 18th in C1 by 6 pm. 19th all in ABC and 20th in BC.

Above 3m vertical route was small couloir also very difficult. Route was much more difficult technically even to C4 than De Stefani expected, but fixed only 70m of rope (above C4).