원정 개요

C3 was pitched at 6790m on 21 September, but occupied for only night and the next day all down in BC; this was part of their acclimatization program. On the 23rd, when a fatal avalanche struck some teams, they were still safely in BC.

But three members left the mountain on the 25th because of the avalanche: Bozio, Tamilla and Tosi had now lost all motivation for the climb.

On the 25th, Curnis went up to C1 while the team's only "Sherpa," Pasang Lama Bhote, went higher to see what was left of their C3. He found just one sleeping bag. They went back to BC that day and Pasang Lama and remaining members of team rested there on the 26th and 27th.

On the 28th the three men climbed to C2, and the next day they went up to C4. On the 30th they went for the top. Curnis, Confortola and Pasang Lama left C4 at 3:00 am and were on the summit at 9:00 am. They returned to C4 at 1:00 pm, stayed for two hours, and descended all the way to BC at 7:00 pm.

Hired:
Pasang Lama Bhote, 17/10/84, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun, Everest X3, Lhotse X2,
Makalu X1, Manaslu X1