원정 개요

BC at Tangnag village lodge
Biv1 at start of SSE Ridge on rock
Biv2 on SSE Ridge on rock
Biv3 on SSE Ridge on rock
Biv4 on SSE Ridge on ice and snow
Biv5 on SSE Ridge on ice and snow.

The three Japanese established no fixed camps on the mountain, but bivouacked at five increasingly higher altitudes as they worked their way up the SSE Ridge to the summit. They left their last bivouac for the top on 11 November at 8:00 am and summited at 4:00 pm. They had climbed two pitches on rock at a small traverse, then two pitches on ice, and the fifth and final pitch a walk up a snow field to the summit.

They then descended the West Ridge of snow and ice to a bivouac at 6250m, where they arrived at 9:00 pm, four hours after nightfall, "pretty tired," Hanatani said.

The next day, 12 November, they left their final bivouac rather late, at 9:00 am, and descended all the way to the lodge at Tangnag village, which they had made their BC. They arrived at Tangnag at about 9:30 pm after another very long day.

There had been three of four incidents of rockfall, which hurt no one. Hanatani described the climb as the best he'd ever had. The three members friendship had lasted for the entire long route of 40 pitches, 2400 meters surmounted from Tangnag to the summit on rock, snow and ice up a "beautiful line" in sunshine every day.