원정 개요

BC at road
ABC at North Col
C1 at North Col
C2 on North Ridge
C3 on North Face.

2 members and 1 Sherpa to N Col in April for acclimatization then back to KTM to pick up baggage (20 from France and other items from Japan) and to rest. 27th April left KTM with 5 Sherpas; Chinese customs problem, back to KTM for papers; crossed on 28th and on to BC and ABC on 3rd, which was too fast for Sherpas to acclimatize and sent them back to BC. Decided to cancel highest camps to save time. Down to Shegar on 18th May for rest while Sherpas ferried loads to C2. Returned to BC 20th May and up mountain for ABC 22 May. Left C3 at 1:30 am of 27th and got to top 1 pm; climbed in almost full moonlight and then clear morning with little wind - Futagami little later than others. 1:45 pm started descent in fog in same as reached top. Nukita 150m distant from top with 2 Sherpas just behind, but Phinzo reported did not see Futagami. They returned to summit and found his footprints 20m from summit. Phinzo went to edge and said he saw traces of where body had fallen. Nonetheless left rope fixed case he came back and returned to C3 at 9:30 pm; light flashing all night; left stocked C3. Nukita down on 28th to ABC, 29th to BC and arrived KTM last night while Sherpas are packing up and coming to border 3 June.