원정 개요

BC on moraine Torogumba Glacier
C1 several camps pitched while exploring
C2 on mountain's west side.

This was basically an exploration of the west side of Ganesh I by the team's leader with the assistant leader and their Sherpas in support in order to reach the summit via the West Face.

First, they attempted to find a line directly up the West Face. C1 was placed at 5000m at the foot of the face on 31 October by Crampton and their five Sherpas. From there they climbed the left side of a gully on the face and fixed 900m of rope here. But the gully turned out to be an avalanche chute. Their five Sherpas climbed to 5500m; Crampton and Mansikka went to only 5450m after the Sherpas reported on the avalanching.

Next, on 5 November, they went to have a look at the possibility of climbing the SW Ridge. Crampton and Pasang Ongchu, their sirdar, walked to the head of the glacier at 4500m. This approach was even more dangerous than the West Face because of large hanging seracs.

Lastly, Crampton and their five Sherpas, hoping for a safe route on the NW Ridge, made a new C1 at 5000m at the snow-line on the 7th. On the 9th from this C1 Crampton, the Sherpas and all the members tried to push a route to a C2. They climbed to 5700m where they were stopped by crevasses that were impassable without a good supply of ladders. Their high point here as just below their proposed site for C2. They retreated to BC, and there on the 10th the decision was made to abandon the climb.

Sherpas:
Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, 5/9/88 (20/6/2045), Hatiya-1, Everest
Dorje Sherpa, 1/1/65, Phuleli (near Nunthala), Taksindu-3, Solu, Everest X6
Pasang Nima Sherpa, 28/1/74 (2/3/2030) Chaurikharka-2, Solu, scaled Everest
Pasang Ongchu Sherpa, 25/4/87, Bung-9, Solu, Everest
Sange Sherpa, 20/9/73, Sotang-6, Solu, scaled Everest