원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 on NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge at start of traverse.

Six members and six Sherpas left C3 for the summit on 3 October. Bailey, Coster, Fila, Maybank, Mazur and Pontinen with Sherpas Ang Pasang, Jangbu, Lhakpa Gelu, Pasang Norbu, Sange and Tenji started out for the top at 2:00 am. They got only 100m above C3, where they had to turn back because of the sugar snow lying loosely on rock, where it was impossible to get a purchase.

They retreated to C1. They had no time to make a second attempt: their timetable had been set when they planned to climb Cho Oyu, but with Tibet closed, they had to substitute another mountain at the last minute.

Three members left the team early:

Karel left on 27 September because of business problems back home; he had reached C1.

Miller left on the 28th by helicopter; he was seriously out of shape for climbing a huge mountain.

Mooney got to ABC only and left on the 21st; he was afraid of heights.

Oxygen was used by all members who went above C2. Their Sherpas used none.

Sherpas:
Ang Pasang, 15/6/84, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2
Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X7, Lhotse X1
Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Beni, Solu, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X7, Lhotse X1
Pasang Norbu, Nurugaon, Makalu, Everest X6, Lhotse X, Kangch X1, Manaslu X1
Sange, 21/5/71, Dinding, Makalu, Lhotse X2
Tenji, 1/6/82, Patle, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1