원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at Col.

Sherpas [from First Sherpa Youth Expedition] made 3 unsuccessful summit bids with first one on 24th and got to SE Ridge above SE Face "when defeated by wind" as on next two tries. On 2nd try got near S Summit; 3rd really not an attempt (did not get out of C4 tents); this 3rd bid was about 2nd May.

Athans and Matous left C2 on 5th May for Lhotse summit and reached C3. Steve developed bad headache and used oxygen that night and 6th went down to C2 and Athans stayed at C3 to wait for Sherpas to mount their 4th Everest attempt. Athans and 3 Sherpas to C2 on 7th and to top on 8th, starting together but Athans fell behind struggling with video camera. Athans had left col at 2 am and Sherpas on top at 9:00 am and Athans 10:00 am on top (Sherpas waited at top for Athans) on cold and windy day. For Sherpas this was last summit bid; they were burned out.

Lhotse very dry and lot of bare rock and blue ice; whole of Lhotse Face "blinking of blue ice." Icefall huge crevasse. So with partner and rope Athans would have gone for Lhotse summit but not alone (Athans not soloist, likes sharing experience with someone else).