원정 개요

The Monterosa Cho Oyu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Monterosa provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:

Participants:
Leopold Goven (Belgium)
Lucia Ferrandiz (Spain)
Jose Rivadeneira (Ecuador)
Christopher Suggitt (UK)
Margaret Foster (UK)
Hans Mueller (Germany)
Jose Esparta Asteinza (Spain)
Jaromir Mataj (Czech Republic)
Ales Ort (Czech Republic)
Thomas Koerbitz (Germany) [??]


Leopold Goven (Belgium)

Name: None
Camps: None
Left: Not to BC
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at Tingri due to illness


Lucia Lopez Ferrandiz (Spain)

Name: None
Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,01/10,7150m),
C3(02/10,7500m),Smt(03/10)
Left: 06/10/2011
Hired: 0
Term: Success

Hans-Willi Mueller says that Lucia Lopez joined other Spanish and summited on 3 Oct.


Jose Rivadeneira (Ecuador)

Name: None
Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,7150m),xxx
Left: 05/10/2011
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)


Christopher Suggitt (UK)
Margaret Foster (UK)

Name: Chris Suggitt & Maggie Foster Cho Oyu Expedition 2011
Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,7150m),xxx
Left: 05/10/2011
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)

Arrived at ABC on 7th Sept, departed ABC on 5th Oct, high point C2 (7000m) on following dates 20 Sept, 25 to 27 Sept.

Sherpa support dictated to us that the bad weather on mountain would prevent any further climbing on mountain after 27 Sept.

Sherpa dictat proved wrong but we had cleared all equipment from the mountain so did not have a further opportunity for a summit attempt. Very disappointed with Dawa, as we felt he had deliberately lied to us about other expeditions packing up and returning early due to Chinese Climbing Association apparently not willing to reestablish trail. He made the decision to curtail our climbing by a week and derig camps, when, in fact, the predicted good weather did materialise and many climbers summitted whilst we sat at base camp watching them. He had returned to KTM.

Oxygen: Maggie carried some oxygen but did not use any.

Sherpas:
Dawa Sherpa supported Maggie Foster directly.


Hans-Willi Mueller (Germany)

Name: None
Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,7150m),xxx
Left: 05/10/2011
Hired: 2
Term: Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)

When I tried to go to the summit, I was caught in snowstorm in C2 at 7150m. I had to wait there 2 days, after that it was impossible to go on because of avalanche danger. So I had to go down and terminate.

We had two sherpas in a group of 5 persons, Temba and Pemba.


Jose Esparta (Spain)

Name: None
Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(25-27/09,7150m),xxx
Left: 05/10/2011
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)


Jaromir Mataj (Czech Republic)
Ales Orts (Czech Republic)

Name: H. T. Cho Oyu Expedition
Camps: ABC(07/09,5700m),C1(09/09,6400m),C2(20,25-27/09,01/10,7150m),
C3(02/10,7500m),xxx
Left: 06/10/2011
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7500 due to loss of equipment at C3

Jaromir Mataj:
09/07/2011 Arrive to ABC (5700m)
09/09/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
09/10/2011 C1-BC
09/14/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
09/15/2011 Above C1 (to the seracs 6700m) - sleep C1
09/16/2011 Above C1 (plateau above the seracs 6900m) - sleep C1
09/17/2011 C1-BC
09/19/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
09/20/2011 BC-C2 (7200m) - sleep C2
09/21/2011 C2-BC
--first try to summit
09/24/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
09/25/2011 BC-C2 (7200m) - sleep C2
09/26/2011 C2 - sleep C2 - because of bad weather
09/27/2011 C2-BC
--second try to summit
09/30/2011 BC-C1 (6400m) - sleep C1
10/01/2011 BC-C2 (7200m) - sleep C2
10/02/2011 C2-C3 - sleep C3
10/03/2011 C3-C1
10/04/2011 C1-BC
10/06/2011 leaving BC

Our backpack with equipment (sleeping bag, cooker, half of tent) fell down from C3, so we returned.


Thomas Koerbitz (Germany)

Name: None
Camps: xxx(01/10,7150m)
Left: 06/10/2011
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7150m due to bad weather (snowstorm)

Chris Suggitt says that Thomas Koerbitz from Germany claimed to have achieved C2 (7150m) on 1st or 2nd October.