원정 개요

Sherpas:
Fu Dorchi Sherpa, Makalu-5
Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9


Jacek Jawien: Manaslu Avalanche 09/23/2012

Jecek Jawien returned a few days ago from the Manaslu expedition. Many mountain climbers were on Manaslu because China had closed the border; therefore, 25 expeditions were undertaken, a lot of people in a small area. Spring on Manaslu is dangerous; fall is better. A few days before the accident everything looked safe; the glacier was basically snowless. There were 200 people present. After a nice-weather period, there came a bad-weather period with snow and rain. After one or two nights there was minimal snowfall, and the alpinists felt safe. The snow pack in Camp 1 was not very deep. After the bad-weather period the weather was nice again and the climbers went to the highest possible area. Camp 3 consisted of 20-25 tents and many Sherpas as well as experienced and non-experienced mountaineers. The avalanche was triggered by a massive serac that broke loose on a high ridge. No one knows how big the serac was that caused the avalanche. The avalanche took 30-35 people with it. Camp 3 got completely covered and Camp 2 partially. Many muntaineers fell down crevasses; some could not free themselves. The dimensions of the avalanche were enormous. At first there was no professional help available; the call for help was made about half an hour after the avalanche had come down. The avalanche was triggered at 5 am. The first helicopters arrived between 8:00 and 8:30 am. There were few signs of an avalanche before this happened and the weather was good. A meeting was held with the Sherpas after the avalanche to decide whether or not to climb up to the avalanche. They decided to send a group of experts. The helicopter rescue was done by a local Nepalese company, Simrik Air. The people in charge of this company first asked who was going to pay them before they flew out. The rest of the organization was just as difficult since the helicopters were all stationed in different places far away from the avalanche. Himalaya needs a professionally organized helicopter rescue.