원정 개요

April went up to C2 site and left cache and then down to ABC to rest. Then it snowed and down to BC. 11th up to C1, where spent 5 days because of winds. Up to C2 and spent 1 night with howling winds. 13th down to ABC for 3 days. 16th to C1 but only 1 day there because of winds even there; down to BC. 23rd to C1, 24th C2, 25th to 7600m, where spent 2 half days. 28th winds stopped at 6 am and got to 8150m 5 hours later. There winds blew up and Burleson had only 25m of 7mm rope; saw old fixed lines but unusable (pulled right out). Burleson now alone (Sherpas went only as high as C3 and waited there) so turned back and down to C1 knowing this was end of climb. Discouraged by wind, but very happy with the climb because really well, getting fast and not concerned about others. Much easier route than those on north side of Everest.