원정 개요

BC above glacier near glacier's junction
C1 north of point 6180m
High point at West Face.

Very strong winds after 7th April and tents broken. Fixed 500m rope up from C1 and below C3 about 1000m of rope and 800m more to 7300m to top for a small ridge and start of very steep section. After reached 7300m wind strong and blowing much snow on to route. Now very cold and feet begining to freeze. Others not able to forge ahead.

12th May S Panzeri and Spreafico were only climbers techinically capable of moving fast enough and they tried again but feet gave a lot of pain and turned back.

All members reached C2 but only Spreafico and Panzeri brothers reached C3 (plus Ferrari for 1 night). S Panzeri and Spreafico want to come again and finish route up "very good granite" above hard ice; ice 60 degeees (below C3).

Negri arrived at BC 24th April because had had ski accident; he reached C2 and then knee swelled up and had to stop.

Oxygen used only by sick Sherpa who had pulmonary edema.