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BC on north side of Punggyen Glacier southwest of Kharka
C3 on glacier before East Wall/Face
C5 on South Ridge (series of bivouacs).

After C2 took time; about 10 rope-lengths above C3 on east wall where USSR climbers fell in 1990; finished their old route but now too much snow and avalanching. Down to BC after reaching 7200-7300m 28th April E Face.

Now 3 men from BC climbed alpine-style with no fixed ropes, no fixed camps, no O2 to S Ridge. Started 1st may from BC, went through C1 after drinking there and climbed through night to saddle if possible but bivouac 10-12 rope-lengths before saddle at 6500m; 2nd night at Polish saddle 7000m. 4th May daytime climb on S Ridge and bivouac before steep rock ridge at 7400m. 5th May very difficult and dangerous traverse to bivouac at 7850m. 6th May to top; left last bivouac at 6 am, on top after 10 hours (last ropes to the top very steep and dangerous snow avalanching) and carrying all gear in order to traverse and descend normal route and bivouac at 7900m. On 6th May on normal route which was NE Face ridge. 7th May down slowly because tired and did not know route to 7100m following old ropes sometimes and Italian BC 8th May where 2 Soviets met them and own BC early morning 9th May. Left BC 10th May.