S Tirolean Himalayan Expedition 1991 to Manaslu
Manaslu · 1991 · 봄 (1) · Italy
원정 개요
BC at normal site (Manaslu Glacier)
C1 on Manaslu Glacier
C2 on Manaslu Glacier
C3 on Manaslu Glacier
High point at 40-degree slope of Manaslu Glacier northeast side.
On 10th May Hans Kammerlander, Freidl Mutschlechner and Karl Grossrubatscher left C3 at 5:30 am. After half-hour Friedl turned back because previously frostbitten fingers getting numb (-35 degrees windy weather) and returned to C3. Karl turned back at 7200m because had not brought his ice axe and now realized it was needed. They had seen weather not good and not trying for top. From BC saw Karl around C3 tent. Because cloudy at 9:00 am and no longer could be seen. Hans turned back at 7500m because of cold and windy. Saw Friedl near C3 tent and Freidl asked Hans at about 9:00 am where is Karl? (Freidl had been sleeping). They looked, around and saw Karl's body c100m to C3 and very near tent found ice axe with glove in it's strap - Karl's neck broken, but how? Gentle slope with some snow in good condition. He was very strong and professional climber. Perhaps he went up serac above tent, but no sign of body's falling in snow - little blood on temple, but only neck broken. Body put on top of closed crevasse which in warmer weather will open. Hans and Friedl then took down to C3 tent and went to C2, took this tent down. Fog coming and going so down slowly in poor visibility. Left some gear below a steep section; others next day would recover this and they towards C1. Their ice axes were singing with and hair full of electricity. 100m above C1 there was a small hill and they were on skies roped together; Friedl asks Hans to wait for better visibility. Hans ear popped, but no lightning seen; ear felt like biting on it and he dropped his rucksack and dropped himself into snow - pulled on rope but no response. He scooped out snow and lay in his shallow cave (about 4 pm) but before went to Friedl who did not move, stayed only a minute, made his shelter cave and later again to Freidl and now saw he was dead. Hans immediately to C1 despite snow falling and stayed there above that night - stormed all night. 11 May Hans to BC and 3 other members, sirdar, 2 Sherpas and kitchen boy up to C1. Members to Friedl and left him where he lay. Took C1 to BC and all activity finished. Left BC 13th May.
3 burn marks on Friedl's head and cap. Hans 8m distant from Friedl and little lower than Freidl, who was at highest point of small gentle hill.
On 21st April saw oil on water from snow - from Kuwait's oil wells burning? Afterwards fresh snow did not have oil again on water.
- 내부 원정 ID769
- 원본 EXPIDMANA91104
- 대장Hans Kammerlander
- 루트 (Route)NE Face
- 최고 도달고도7500m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유악천후 (4)
참가자 12명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Johann (Hans) Kammerlander | Italy | Leader | - | - | - |
| Albert Brugger | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Gregor Demetz | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Pavel Dolecek | Germany | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
| Karl Grossrubatscher | Italy | Climber | - | - | 사망 |
| Roland Losso | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Gottfried (Friedl) Mutschlechner | Italy | Climber | - | - | 사망 |
| Johann (Hans) Mutschlechner | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Stefan Plangger | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Christian Rier | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Erich Seeber | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Werner Tinkhauser | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |