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Japanese Kojichuwa Chuli Expedition 2011

Kojichuwa Chuli · 2011 · 여름 (2) · Japan

원정 개요

Approach: Flight to Jumla, Chere, Danfe Bhajyang, Burme, Bhulbhule, Gamgadi, Manggri, Mugu Khola, Mugu, Takyachur, Khaptan Chaur, Namjala, Khaptan Chaur, Pukano Mugu, Koji Khola.

Otsue led a team of three climbers together with Man Bahadur, Bibas and Phurpu to Kojichuwa Chuli East (6159m) SE Face (Nepal-Tibet border peak). The team left high camp at 5:30 am on 3 July and got to the top at 1:30 pm. They stayed on the summit for 20 minutes and returned to high camp at 5 pm. Next day 4 July the team went down to BC. The summit day weather on the way up was cloudy, but the summit was clear.

Next the team climbed Karmarong (6022m) North Face (Nepal-Tibet border peak). The team used the same BC for both peaks. The expedition team pitched its high camp at 5450m on 9 July. Otsue, Ibe, Kato, Man Bahadur, Bibas and Phurpu left high camp at 8:10 am on 10 July. The team got to the summit at 3:30 pm and stayed on the summit for 10 minutes. They got back to high camp at 5:30 pm. Next day 11 July all went down to BC. Otsue said that the top portion of the peak has a rock face about 100m of 40-40 degrees. The weather on the summit day was cloudy all the way up and down.

The team had a permit for Kojichuwa Chuli, but it did not go for it due to bad weather.

Hired:
Man Bahadur Gurung, 27/4/64, Sitalpati, Makalu
Bibas Gurung, 6/6/88 (24/2/2045), Hatiya-7
Phurpu Bhote, 7/5/76 (25/1/2033), Hatiya-1

  • 내부 원정 ID7673
  • 원본 EXPIDKOJI11201
  • 대장Tetsuji Otsue
  • 루트 (Route)SE Face (E Smt)
  • 최고 도달고도6159m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유부봉 등정 (2)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Tetsuji OtsueJapanLeader---
Miho IbeJapanClimber---
Takako KatoJapanClimber---
Reiko ShimizuJapanClimber---
Phurba (Phurpu) BhoteNepalH-A Worker---
Bibas GurungNepalH-A Worker---
Man Bahadur GurungNepalH-A Worker---

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