Swedish Manaslu Expedition
Manaslu · 2012 · 가을 (3) · Sweden
원정 개요
- On 12 of September Hallstrom went to C1 and back to BC.
- On 18 of September, he went a second time at C1 for sleeping and acclimatization and went back after that to base camp.
- On 21 of September he climbed for C1 and slept there.
- The day after, 22nd of September he climbed up for C2 and slept here with Pemba Rita Sherpa and another Sherpa (Hallstrom cannot remember his name)
- On 23rd, they were hit by the breath of the avalanche whilst having breakfast. All of them went back at BC the same day to wait for new instructions.
Fixed rope:
from BC to C1, 20% of the route was fixed rope.
from C1 to C2, 70% was fixed rope
and apparently no more after C3 (but obviously he didn't climb above C2)
Hallstrom doesn't know whose Sherpas did put it and from which company.
Oxygen:
Was planned to be used from C4 for sleeping, then to summit and back to C4. Hallstrom should have climbed with Pemba Rita Sherpa (6 times on Everest) the summit day.
Permit:
Hallstrom took a joint permit with Ersun Kurtulus (Swede from UK) and 5 other members (international), the latter not dealing with Rolwaling Excursions agency. 15 Sherpas from Rolwaling Excursions led by Tashi Sherpa had to manage the Chinese group (leader Sang Zhu), Ersun and Torbjorn, and to put up the altitude camps and fix the rope. After that 13 Sherpas especially took care of the Chinese, and two especially for Torbjorn (Pemba Rita Sherpa) and Ersun (Jit Bahadur Sherpa).
Reasons for abandonment:
Ascent on Manaslu was a preparation for Everest that Torbjorn always wanted to climb for fun hefore his 50th birthday!
The avalanche made him decide that he no longer wanted to stay there (he captured a video inside the C2 early in the morning; the wind and noise lasted for 3 minutes), because he didn't feel good after the accident and was enough prepared for Everest.
- 내부 원정 ID7664
- 원본 EXPIDMANA12313
- 대장Torbjorn Hallstrom
- 루트 (Route)NE Face
- 최고 도달고도6400m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)
참가자 2명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Claes Torbjorn Hallstrom | Sweden | Leader | - | - | - |
| Pemba Rita Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |