원정 개요

Ian Rybak (email) - 27 Dec 2012

All heights are according to my GPS:
08.10.2011 - Arrival to BC (5330m)
09.10.2011 - Move from BC to ABC (5780m)
10.10.2011 - Move from ABC to C1 (6170m)
11.10.2011 - Back from C1 to BC
13.10.2011 - Move from ABC to C1 (6170m)
14.10.2011 - Move from C1 to C2 (6400m)
15.10.2011 - Summit attempt (till 6950m) and back to C2
16.10.2011 - Back from C2 to BC
17.10.2011 - Departure from BC

We didn't have any Sherpas with us above BC.

All of us have climbed together to the height of 6950m and turned around because of lack of time and poor weather conditions. There was a wide band of ice at about 6800-6900m with no fixed ropes and we led 3-4 pitches through it with use of ice screws, but we have lost too much time negotiating this section and was above it at 15:10 in poor weather with low visibility, so we decided to descent.

We have started from C2 at about 4:00-4:30 am, the weather was clear, a little windy.