Eric Larson
Ama Dablam · 2011 · 가을 (3) · USA
원정 개요
Larson and Hyland started from C2 at 3 am. They arrived C3 arond 7 am. Both got to the top at 10:30 am, stayed on summit for half an hour. They descended to C2 at 2:30 pm and continued to C1 where they arrived at 5:30 pm and spent night there. Next day on 26 Oct they went down to Pangboche.
David Hyland (email) - 28 Nov 2012
(1) Our team consisted of just the two of us, myself and Eric Larson. Eric is a professional guide (IFMGA) who has previously attempted and summited Ama Dablam, as well as Cho Oyu, and I was his client.
(2) Here is our itinerary:
BC arrival date was 10/18/11 and our BC departure date was 10/26/11.
10/08/11 -- flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
10/08/11 -- trek from Lukla to Phakding
10/09/11 -- trek from Phakding to Namche
10/10/11 -- day hike from Namche to Khumjung/Khunde and return to Namche
10/11/11 -- trek from Namche to Pangboche
10/12/11 -- trek from Pangboche to Chhukung
10/13/11 -- trek from Chhukung to High Camp in the basin just to the east of
Kongma-La Pass (approx 17,400 ft)
10/14/11 -- climb and summit Kongma-Tse (19,094 ft)
10/15/11 -- climb and summit Pokalde (19,049 ft)
10/15/11 -- trek from High Camp to Lobuche
10/16/11 -- trek from Lobuche to Pangboche
10/17/11 -- rest day in Pangboche
10/18/11 -- trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam BC
10/19/11 -- ascend from BC to Camp 1
10/20/11 -- ascend from Camp 1 to mid-point between Camps 1 and 2 and return to
Camp 1
10/21/11 -- descend from Camp 1 to BC
10/22/11 -- rest day in BC
10/23/11 -- ascend to Camp 1
10/24/11 -- ascend to Camp 2
10/25/11 -- ascend from Camp 2 to summit and descend to Camp 1
2:15 am -- woke up
3:30 am -- depart Camp 2
6:30-7:00 am (approximate time) -- arrive Camp 3 for 5-10 minute food/water break
10:00 am -- arrive summit
10:30 am -- depart summit
2:30 pm -- arrive Camp 2
3:30 pm -- depart Camp 2
5:00 pm -- arrive Camp 1 (Eric Larson)
6:00 pm -- arrive Camp 1 (David Hyland)
10/26/11 -- descend from Camp 1 to BC and continue descent to Pangboche
10/27/11 -- rest day in Pangboche
10/28/11 -- trek from Pangboche to Namche
10/29/11 -- trek from Namche to Lukla
10/30/11 -- flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
Attached below you will find an altitude profile chart of our expedition.
(3) We summited Ama Dablam on Oct 25, 2011, at 10:00 am. We spent 30 minutes on the summit and then began our descent at 10:30 am.
(4) We did not have any Sherpa with us. We hired two porters to carry gear from Lukla to Namche. From there we used one porter to carry our climbing gear to Pangboche and then again on up to Ama Dablam BC. After we summited a porter then carried our gear from BC down to Pangboche and then from Pangboche back down to Lukla. I'm not sure if we used one or two porters for the outbound carry. I do not know their names.
(5) There were no real notable details. Overall, the trip went very smoothly.
To facilitate our climbing speed and help ensure our success, we tried to stay light. For instance, we borrowed a tent at Camp 2, so we did not need to carry nor set up a tent above Camp 1. And on our summit day Eric carried a small pack and I carried no pack.
In terms of health, we faired well. Of course, we eventually got the "Khumbu cough," and I also picked up a cold from either a Taiwanese trekker or a group of Italian doctors in Pangboche. Neither of us felt any ill effects from the altitude and neither of us had any gastrointestinal issues.
Also, the weather was quite cooperative. Even the one snowfall event, on Oct 20-21, coincided with our descent back to base camp for a rest day, so it proved to be no inconvenience whatsoever. We heard that on our summit day the winds were forecast to be 50 mph, but that proved to not be the case.
On our summit day the winds were light and the sun was bright.
- 내부 원정 ID7653
- 원본 EXPIDAMAD11330
- 대장Eric Larson
- 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6814m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 2명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Eric Allen Larson | USA | Leader | 성공 | - | - |
| David C. Hyland | USA | Climber | 성공 | - | - |