원정 개요

BC at normal site
ABC at icefall top at NE Col
C1 at snow cave at start of ridge
C2 on NE Ridge.

Took 2 weeks to place ABC because of frequent snowfall and avalanches. Fixed entire icefall. 3 May Mathorne and Christensen left C3 for top but turned around 5 mins because of cold and toes starting to freeze.

8th May Ritzau, Smidt, Voldstedlund and Korsgaard left ABC for summit bid, but Korsgaard and Voldstedlund turned back on 11th at 7200m because one had headache and other had never interested to go to top. 12th Ritzau down from C2 because not strong. Smidt on to C3 on 12th and stayed there 13th to rest. Snow very deep (almost to hips) and worked hard 12th night to put camp in order. 14th left C3 at 8:15 am and on top at 12:45 pm in cold but clear and windless weather that morning.

Between Marpha and BC stuck in big snowstorm for 6 days.

BC to ABC 7 km apart and never down to BC for one month. With no Sherpas most members exhausted by establishing ABC from such a distance from BC.