Kobler & Partner Makalu Expedition 2012
Makalu · 2012 · 가을 (3) · Switzerland
원정 개요
C4 at 7900m wrong C4 on rocky buttress
High point at top of rocky buttress.
After the second acclimatization phase during which the team did not get to sleep on the Makalu La as they had run out of rope, the whole team left BC on 24 Sept for their summit attempt. They spent two nights at the Makalu La to get a better acclimatization as they were attempting to summit without using supplementary oxygen. During their rest day the Sherpas estabished C4; however, they put it in the wrong place. Instead of traversing left from the Makalu La, they went straight up and established the C4 on top of a rock pinnacle at about 7900m.
When Huesser and the rest of the team arrived at C4 and realized the mistake, it was clear that neither the Sherpas nor the team would have been strong enough to move the camp the following day and try to summit on 30 Sept, so they decided to descend to BC.
The high point team (Huesser, Bierling, Stoll, Wunderlich, Contreras and Gonzalez) intended another summit attempt on 8 Oct; however, when they reached C2 on 6 Oct the winds were just too high to carry on. They packed up C2 and descended to BC, which was the end of the expedition.
Schoellhuber reached an altitude of about 7650m during the first summit attempt on 28 Sept; however, he was too tired to carry on and turned back to C3, where he spent the night. He descended to BC on 29 Sept and left BC on 2 Oct.
Streich reached an altitude of about 6900m on 17 Sept during the second acclimatization phase when the team tried to reach the Makalu La for the first time. He got cold during the climb and wanted to turn back to C2 to get his down gear, however, by the time he got there and back he was too tired to carry on.
Streich abandoned the expedition during the summit attempt as he had bruised or hair fractured a rib, which he felt when he reached C2 on 25 Sept. He was in too much pain to carry on and descended to BC on 26 Sept. He left BC together with Schollhuber on 2 Oct.
Oxygen:
Taken not used.
Sherpas:
Pemba, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung, 9/7/1982
Nima Tendu, Upper Walung, Makalu-Barun, 31/8/1973
Tenji, Tapting-7, Solukhumbu, 16/4/1981
Pasang Angchuk, Gyabla, Lelep-8, Taplejung, 15/2/1984
- 내부 원정 ID7624
- 원본 EXPIDMAKA12301
- 대장Suzanne Huesser
- 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도7900m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유악천후 (4)
참가자 12명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Suzanne Katharina Huesser | Switzerland | Leader | - | - | - |
| Barbara Susanne (Billi) Bierling | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Yuri Contreras Cedi | Mexico | Climber | - | - | - |
| Laura Gonzalez del Castillo Aranda | Mexico | Climber | - | - | - |
| Johannes Schoellhuber | Austria | Climber | - | - | - |
| Bernhard Stoll | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Andreas Peter Streich | Switzerland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Patric Wunderlich | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Nima Tendu (Nima Thenduk) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Pasang Angchuk/Angjuck Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Pemba Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Tenji Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |