Asian Trekking International Everest Expedition 2012
Everest · 2012 · 봄 (1) · Japan
원정 개요
The Asian Trekking International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:
David Klein (Hungary)
Edina Aniko Torok (Hungary)
Name: Dockler Everest Expedition 2012
Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(07/05,7100m),C2(24/05,7800m),
xxx(25/05,8000m)
Left: 28/05/2012
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 8000m due to being too slow due to lack of acclimatization
First summit attempt would have been on 18 May; however the ropes had not been fixed, so Klein abandoned this plan and went back to BC from 7600m on 17 May.
On his summit attempt, Klein left C2 at 7:30 am to reach C3. When he reached 8000m at about 9:30 am, he felt that he was too slow and decided to turn back. He broke down his camps on the descent and went all the way to bC, wehre he arrived at 9 pm.
Klein felt stronger again when he got down and was contemplating a third summit attempt; however, the weather forecast was not good so he decided to go home. He left BC on 28 May.
Oxygen: not taken, not used.
William Burke (USA)
Allan Robert Smith (USA)
Name: None
Camps: BC(13/05,5200m),ABC(15/05,6400m),C1(17/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),
C3(19/05,8300m),xxx(20/05,8600m)
Left: 23/05/2012
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8600m due to wind, coldness and too late in the day
Burke had come from the south side of Everest. He took a helicopter from BC on the south side on 8 May and stayed a few days in Kathmandu before he took a vehicle to BC on the north side.
Burke and Ang Mingma left C3 at 8 pm on 19 May. When they started up it was windy, which increased significantly and when they reached the 2nd Step at 8600m at 3:00 am it was snowing and very windy. Burke got too cold and decided to turn back. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 am. They rested for about 3 hours, then continued to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. They stayed the night and descended to ABC on 21 May. On 22 May they descended to BC and left on 24 May.
Oxygen:
Taken and used from 6600m to high point to 6800m by Burke.
From C2 to high point to C2 by Sherpa.
Sherpas:
Mingma (Ang Mingma), Yilajung, 21/2/1968, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
Noriyuki Muraguchi (Japan)
Tamae Watanabe (Japan)
Name: Watanabe-Muraguchi Everest Expedition
Camps: BC(15/04,5100m),ABC(26/04,6400m),C1(16/05,7400m),C2(17/05,7800m),
C3(18/05,8300m),Smt(19/05)
Left: 24/05/2012
Hired: 3
Term: Success
The team established BC on 15 April and stayed until the 25th acclimatizing there. On the 26th they moved up to ABC, and in early and mid-May they moved higher to acclimatize more, but returned to ABC and did not establish their three high camps until their push to the summit.
The push to the summit began on 16 May, when they climbed from ABC to occupy C1 at the North Col. The next day, they pitched C2, and made C3 at 8300m on the 18th.
At 9:00 pm (NST) on the 18th, the two members and their three Sherpas left C3 for the top. All arrived at the summit at 7:00 am of 19 May. Ms. Watanabe now became the oldest woman to reach the top of Everest.
They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5:00 pm, after having stopped in C3 to rest. The following day, 20 May, they went down to ABC and were in BC on the 22nd. They left BC for Kathmandu on the 24th.
Ms. Watanabe found the ladder at the Second Step a problem only because she was wearing an oxygen mask, and it was difficult to see her feet with a mask on.
The members started using oxygen in C1 and continued on it to the summit and down to C1. The Sherpas started on it in C3, and stayed on it to the top and back to C1 or ABC, wherever their supply ran out.
Sherpas:
Mingma Sherpa, 1/10/97, Thamo, Khumbu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
Phura Nuru Sherpa, 28/6/85, Tesho, Namche-5, Khumbu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
Phurba Sherpa, 27/6/58, Thamo, Khumbu, Everest X1
Ryszard Pawlowski (Poland)
Maciej Przyborski (Poland)
Malgorzata Waszkowska (Poland)
Iwona Zadarnowska-Wingert (Poland)
Przemyslaw Kepczynski (Sweden)
Name: Five for Everest
Camps: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7700m),
C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 24/05/2012
Hired: 5
Term: Success
Pawlowski, Kepczynski and Ang Chhiri left C3 at 10 pm on 19 May. There were few people on the route. Weather was very windy. Kepczynski reached 8500m at about midnight, but was suffering from a stomach pain (probably gall stones - he had this problem before) and turned back to C3. Summit team spent about 15 minutes on the summit with about six other people and descended to C3, where they arrived at about 10 am. They collected Kepczynski who had been waiting at C3 and they descended to C1, where they arrived at 5:30 pm.
Przyborski and Waszkowska (couple) reached about 6800m, but never reached the North Col, even though they tried three times. They always had an excuse why not to carry on - little ailments, according to Pawlowski. They stayed at ABC for the whole of the expedition.
Zadarnowska reached C2 on 18 May. She had been having sinusitis since the beginning of the expedition. Due to this she was too slow and would not have been able to reach the summit. She stayed one night at C2 and descended to ABC on 20 May. They left BC on 24 May.
Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by Pawlowski and Ang Chhiri
From C2 to high point to C1 by Kepczynski.
Sherpas:
Ang Chhiring, aka Chhiri, Thamo, Khumbu 2/6/1973, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2
- 내부 원정 ID7621
- 원본 EXPIDEVER12102
- 대장Noriyuki Muraguchi, Asian Trekking Staff
- 루트 (Route)N Col-NE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도8849m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 16명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Noriyuki Muraguchi | Japan | Leader | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| William Mitchell (Bill) Burke | USA | Climber | - | 사용 | - |
| Przemyslaw Paul Kepczynski | Sweden | Climber | - | 사용 | - |
| David Klein | Hungary | Climber | - | - | - |
| Ryszard Jan Pawlowski | Poland | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Maciej Przyborski | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Allan Robert Smith | USA | BC Mgr/Cameraman | - | - | - |
| Edina Aniko Torok | Hungary | Climber | - | - | - |
| Malgorzata Sylwia Waszkowska | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Tamae Watanabe | Japan | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Iwona Zadarnowska-Wingert | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Chhiri (Ang Chhiring) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Mingma (Ang Mingma) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | 사용 | - |
| Mingma Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Phura Nuru Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Phurba Tshering (Lama Phurba) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |