Dhaulagiri 1991 Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition
Dhaulagiri I · 1991 · 봄 (1) · USSR
원정 개요
BC near Puchhar.
Most difficult section from 5500m to 6200m: 80 degrees (6+ grade) bare rock - fixed ropes all the route from C1 to C5; some avalanches from C4 area, but dry snow and not big avalanches (this when new snowfell). More difficult rock climbing than Lhotse S Face, which mixed rock and ice and higher than Dhaulagiri - very strong winds and very cold.
Dedi's hand broken when he was moving rock to make C1 site; he stayed at BC. In difficult rock section near C1, he fell several times but was attached to fix rope and fell only few meters and not hurt.
Summit teams:
10 May - left C4 from 8:00 to 9:00 am; very fast very strong
climbers on summit from 10:00 to 11:00 am, returned to C6 1:30 pm.
13 May - left C6 at 7:00 am, on summit from 11:00 to 12:00 am,
returned to C6 3:00 pm and C5 7:00 pm.
Expedition left BC 17 May.
Route: W Face Center to snow slope above SW Pillar.
- 내부 원정 ID761
- 원본 EXPIDDHA191102
- 대장Kazbek Valiev
- 루트 (Route)W Face Center (snow slope above SW Pillar)
- 최고 도달고도8167m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 14명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kazbek Shakimovich Valiev | USSR | Leader, Manager | - | - | - |
| Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinski | USSR | Deputy Leader | - | - | - |
| Anatoli Boukreev | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Victor Dedi | USSR | Climber | - | - | - |
| Rinat Khabibulin | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Valeri Nikolaevich Khrishchati | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Valentin Makarov | USSR | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
| Zaurbek Mizambekov | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Yuri Moiseev | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Vladimir Prisjashny | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Alexander Savin | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Artur Shegai | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Vladimir Souviga | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Andrei Tselischev | USSR | Climber | 성공 | - | - |