한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Iranian Manaslu

Manaslu · 2012 · 봄 (1) · Iran

원정 개요

Summit on 10 May by Naseri and Amohammadi at 6:30 pm.

Summit team left C4 at 6 am for their summit attempt. However, it was very cold and windy, so they turned back after one hour to C4. They were climbing with Hossein Salehi from Prestige Adventure. When they got back to their tent, they received the weather forecast from Iran, which said that the weather would improve. They left again at 9 am.

During their climb, the weather was very clear and sunny, however, at 5 pm it turned bad. It started snowing and it got very cold and windy. They reached the summit at 6:30 pm and only spent about one minute on the summit as it was too cold. The visibility was about two meters and they used three GPS to go down.

At about 9:30 pm at 7900m Amohammadi turned around and saw Naseri fall down on the right side of the ridge. They were not on a rope or clipped in. Both Salehi and Amohammadi were trying to look for him, but it was impossible, so they dug out a little platform and stayed the night at this very spot. The next day at 6:30 am, they started their descent to C4 where they met an Italian team led by Sergio Martini at about 7 am. Some of the Italians abandoned their summit attempt look for Naseri, but in vain.

That night, Amohammadi and Salehi stayed at C4 in the hope that Naseri would come back. The following day they descended to base camp. On 13 May they left BC and on 14 May they took a helicopter to Kathmandu.

The season was very difficult as there was too much snow.

Fixed rope: 260m between C1 and C2 200m, C2 and C3 60m to C4.

  • 내부 원정 ID7601
  • 원본 EXPIDMANA12109
  • 대장Jafar Naseri
  • 루트 (Route)NE Face
  • 최고 도달고도8163m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 2명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Jafar NaseriIranLeader성공-사망
Omid AmohammadiIranClimber성공--

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