원정 개요

BC at end of third to Dzsampa on Schneider map (actually just below Kangchung)
C1 at Nangpa La
C2 at same as spring 1986 Polish-Swiss-Austrian route
C3 on Polish-Swiss Austrian route
C4 on West Face on Polish-Swiss-Austrian route.

3 climbing members climbed together the whole time; twice "walked" up to 7600m from C4 and twice dropped back to C4: first day to have a look at terrain and 2nd because had no food with them from C4 (porters had been expected to carry up food and equipment from C3 to C4 to final camp to be established but they never appeared) and no equipment for E Summit camp and summit push. Very little food and fuel in C4 by now, so called off the climb. Stayed in C4 2 nights hoping Sherpas would come but they did not: said 1000 Chinese soldiers were in area and coming to seize expeditions; were afraid of Chinese and had dismantled ABC. All 6 Sherpas complained of headache and stomach trouble but same day dismantled 2 camps. Sirdar was incompetent as leader of men and another Sherpa, Mingma Norbu of Kharikhola wasn't knowledgeable of Cho Oyu, knew nothing and organized retreat of Sherpas.

Successful in making a film.


Handle - 24 April 1988

Following Messner route. Expect summit 27-28 April and return KTM about 5 May - but have time to wait.

Duvoisin has serious sinus trouble so left expedition and goes home 27 April. All others are well. Expedition kept a room at Ambassador Hotel.