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Czech Lhotse 2012

Lhotse · 2012 · 봄 (1) · Czech Republic

원정 개요

Summit on 19 May by Marek at 5:30 pm; Sedlacek at 7:30 pm.

Sedlacek, Sulovsky and Marek left C4 at 5 am. Sulovsky reached about 8200m, but turned back and descended to C3 due to an upset stomach. Marek summited at 5:30 pm and Sedlacek was way behind him. On his way down, Marek met Sedlacek 50m below the summit. Sedlacek seemed Ok, but tired. As Sedlacek had run out of water and food, Marek gave him a power bar and water, and then descended to C4, where he arrived at 8 pm.

He waited, but Sedlacek never arrived; however he was too exhausted to go back out and look for Sedlacek. The next morning it was very windy and impossible to go back up. Marek broke down his camp and descended to C3, where he met Sulovsky. They descended to C2.

On 21 May they descended to BC, and on 22 May they talked to some Lhotse climbers who told them that they had seen Milan's dead body. They left BC on 23 May.

Ozanov reached C3 on 22 April on the 2nd acclimatization rotation. Sulovsky told him he could not climb further as he was a first timer, even though Ozanav thought he would have been strong enough.

Luptak broke his hand on the approach to BC. He was hit by a stone on his left hand and left BC on 20 April. He never got higher than BC.

Oxygen: not taken, not used.

Note: Sedlacek's ascent is probable, but unverified.

  • 내부 원정 ID7585
  • 원본 EXPIDLHOT12111
  • 대장Leopold Sulovsky
  • 루트 (Route)W Face
  • 최고 도달고도8516m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Leopold SulovskyCzech RepublicLeader---
Pavol LuptakCzech RepublicClimber---
Radovan MarekCzech RepublicClimber성공--
Marek OzanovCzech RepublicClimber---
Milan SedlacekCzech RepublicClimber성공-사망

출처·참고문헌

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