원정 개요

BC 19 Apr 5400m
C1 25 Apr 6200m
C2 26 Apr 6400m
C3 15 May 7100m
C4 16 May 7600m
HPt 18 May 8400m by Alvarez, Rodney, Sepulveda at 8:30 am.

High point team left C4 at 8:20 pm on 17 May. It was very windy, so they decided to stay an extra night at C4. Conditions on the mountain were good, however, they were very slow and when they reached their high point at 8400m they thought it was too late and turned back. They returned to C4, where they arrived at 10 pm. They stopped at their deposit camp at 8100m to collect their things. They descended to the left hand side whereas they had ascended on the right.

On 19 May they helped an American climber, David Abramski, at about 7400m, who had turned back from his summit attempt. Abramski was very tired and possibly suffered from HAPE and was lost. They descended with him to C3, where they arrived at 8 pm. On 20 May they left for BC at 8 am. They arrived at C2 at 4 pm at BC at midnight. On their way down they broke down all their camps.

Koller reached 6500m on 4 May. He was in pain as he had a pulled muscle in his left calf during the walk-in. He abandoned the expedition and stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition.

Retamal stayed at BC. He was the expedition doctor and never intended to climb.

Torres reached C2 on 20 May to help the team to pack up. He had been suffering from sinusitis for the whole expedition and never left BC before he ascended to C2 to help the team break down the camp on 20 May. He did not sleep at C2.

On 21 May they left BC and walked all the way to Ramche, which took them between 15 hours and 22 hours.

Accident:

At an altitude of about 6700m, Sepulveda fell on the fixed rope and pulled out the anchor and dragged Alvarez with him. They fell for about 5m to 8m respectively. Alvarez bruised a rib.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used