원정 개요

BC 20 Apr 5500m
C1 25 Apr 6200m
C2 29 Apr 6400m
C3 17 May 7100m
C4 18 May 7600m
HPt 19 May 8100m by Abramski.

Abramski had been on trying to climb the mountain without Sherpa support but realised that it was too hard for him. On his summit attempt he left C4 at 7 pm on 18 May. Snow conditions were good. Weather was clear. He was climbing with a Taiwanese climber, Hsiao-Shih Lee. His goggles were frozen and he had a fever, which slowed him at one stage and he was left alone. When he reached 8100m at 6 am, he thought it was already too late to carry on and decided to turn back. He descended to C4 where he arrived at 7:30 am. He slept for a few hours until noon, packed up and left to go down to C3.

On his descent a snowstorm started and he got slightly lost. He started shouting and the Chilean team, led by Luis Alvarez, found him and helped him down to C3, where they arrived about 8 pm. Abramski was very tired. On 20 May he descended to BC. He left C3 at 11 am and reached BC at 11 pm. He was breaking down his camps on the descent.

He left BC on 21 May together with the Chilean team, who walked all the way to Ramche. Abramski lay down on the glacier at about 5000m at about 10 pm to sleep for six hours. He carried on when the sun rose and walked to Ramche.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4.