원정 개요

As was common with the big commercial expeditions, this team sent a Sherpa to join in fixing rope to the summit. He was Kami Rita, and he worked his way to the top on 18 May.

The expedition mounted one summit bid. All members except Girard and Murphy left C4 for the top at 8:30 pm on the 19th with Sherpas Ang Norbu, Ang Pasang, Dawa Nuru, Kami Rita (again to the top), Karma Sarki, Lhakpa Rita, Mingma Dorje, Mingma Chhiri and Pemba Tenzing.

Matter got to 10 meters below the Hillary Step at 5:00 the next morning, then turned back to C4 because his hands were cold and he wanted to avoid frostbite; Mingma Dorje went down with him. Christopher Sobecki went up to 8450m (just below the Balcony) at 1:00 am, then retreated to C4 because of eye trouble; he was accompanied down by Dawa Nuru. The remaining summit-party members reached the summit at 6:07 am on 20 May and descended to C4.

Other non-summiting members:

Girard got to 6550m on 4 May, because exhausted and never got any higher. He left the team on 15 May.

Murphy went to C4 to the South Col and waited there for Hester to join in a bid for Lhotse's summit.

Oxygen was used by Clark and Mater from C2 to their high points to C2. All other summit-party members used it in C3 to high points to C2. Their Sherpas used it in C4 to their high points to C2.

Lhotse saw two members of this expedition, Hester and Murphy, go to its summit. Murphy did not go to the top of Everest but stayed in C4 at 7900m while Hester did on 20 May. The next day, they moved down onto the West Face of Lhotse at the point where the routes to the summits of Everest and Lhotse diverge (at perhaps, 7300m), and from there climbed the remainder of Lhotse's West Face to its summit. They began the day's climb at 7:30 am, were on the summit at 3:00 pm, and were down in C2 in the Western Cwm (6500m) at 10:00 pm.

Sherpas:
Ang Norbu Sherpa, 5/12/81 (20/8/2038), Thami, no 8000ers
Ang Pasang Sherpa, 19/6/87 (5/3/2024), Thami, Everest X1
Kami Rita Sherpa, 17/1/70 (4/10/2026), Thami, Everest X16, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
Karma Sarki Sherpa, 25/1/87 (11/10/2043), Yilajung (orig Phortse), Everest X1
Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, 9/9/66 (24/5/2025), Thami, Everest X24, Cho Oyu X7
Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, 22/7/68 (7/4/2025), Thami, Everest X15
Pemba Tenzing Sherpa, 23/8/76 (7/5/5/2033), Phurte, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X2


Note from IMG web site:

8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)