원정 개요

Palden Namgye and Phu Tashi fixed rope to the summit on 18 May.

The first summit party left C4 at 11:00 pm on the 18th and summited only the next afternoon, the 19th. They were Andreou, Breitfuss and Schmidt with Sherpas Tashi Thundu, Sange Phuru, Chhiring Namgel and Redar Lama Bhote. They got to the top at 2:00 pm, having had to wait at the Hillary Step for three hours for descending climbers to leave the Step. They returned to C4 at 7:00 pm, went down to C2 the next day and were back in BC on the day after that, the 21st.

The second summit party left C4 at 6:30 pm on the 24th of May to avoid traffic jams. These memebrs were Cameron, Darlington, Hughes, Jarrin, Neil and Stephen; their Sherpas were Jangbu, Mingmar, Ngima Tshering, Pasang Tshering and Tashi Thundu, plus Palden Namgye and Phu Tashi for the second time from C4. Neil turned around at about 3:30 am of the 25th at the bottom of the Hillary Step because of an eye problem and Jangbu accompanied him down.

The remaining members of the party summited at 5:15 am on 25 May. They all were back in C4 at 11:00 am; in C2 twelve hours later, at 11:00 pm, and in BC on the 26th.

Non-summiting members:

Faye-Schjoll had stomach trouble, never went above BC, left team on 11 April.

Hakansson got to C3 on 17 May but left next day: he was tired, fell into a crevasse 20m above C3 and now had had enough.

Mahoney reached C2 on 24 April but lost her stamina and left team on 1 May.

McPhee got only as high as 6300m on 26 April, couldn't acclimatize, left team on 1 May.

Rippel as BC manager stayed in BC.

Wright climbed to 6500m on 17 May, but had a very bad cough and left team on the 18th.

Oxygen was used by all memebrs from C3 to high point to between C4 and C3, except Schmidt, who used it only from 8200m to top to C4. Sherpas used it from C4 to high point to C4.

Sherpas:
Chhiring Namgel Sherpa, 22/8/91, Pangboche
Jangbu Sherpa, 18/6/65, Bakachol-9, Khotang, Everest X5
Mingmar Sherpa, 22/7/70, Damar, Jantarkhani-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1
Ngima Tshering Sherpa, 7/3/85, Khunde
Palden Namgye Sherpa, 20/9/72, Phortse, Everest X5, Lhotse X4, etc
Pasang Tshering Sherpa, 14/1/91, Khunde
Phu Tashi Sherpa, 23/10/77, Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
Redar Lama Bhote, 19/11/86, Hatiya-3, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2
Sange Phuru Sherpa, 22/8/86 (6/5/2043), Bakachol-9, Khotang
Tashi Thundu Sherpa, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X6


Note from IMG web site:

8 Sherpas summited on 18 May as part of a joint expedition rope-fixing team:
Ang Kazi (Chitre) - USA (North Face, Conrad Anker)
Jyamchang Bhote (Hungung) - India (Ajay Kothiyal)
Kami Rita (Thami) - USA (AAI, Garrett Madison)
Phura Kancha (Thami) - Chile (Eugenio Guzman)
Karma Gyalzen (Phortse) - USA (IMG, Mike Hamill)
Phu Tashi (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
Palden Namgyal (Phortse) - Canada (Peak Freaks, Tim Rippel)
Nima Dorje - (Seven Summit Treks)