원정 개요

Summit on 19 May Stihler, Pasang Nuru at 10 am.

Dujmovits had summited Everest in October in 1992 with oxygen. Now, nearly twenty years later, he wanted to climb it without oxygen.

First, he went to Lobuche East to acclimatize with Mrs. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Richard (Richie) Stihler; he was a member of the same Nuptse team as they were. (Its leader was Mrs. Kaltenbrunner). Then he went with them to the north side of Nuptse, planning to make a new route via its East Ridge. But when they looked at their proposed route onto the ridge, they saw dangerous rock fall, and they abandoned the idea of climbing the ridge. Kaltenbrunner and Stihler decided to switch to the mountain's North Pillar, but since he had scaled the pillar in 1996, Dujmovits left Nuptse and turned his attention to Everest.

Dujmovits returned to BC (it was their base for Nuptse also) and went alone to Everest's C3 on 27th April and back to BC on the 28th. The three climbers, Dujmovits, Stihler and Pasang Nuru Sherpa, went together to C3 (7100m) on 10 May, and on the 11th, while Stihler and Pasang Nuru went down to BC, Dujmovits continued up to the Yellow Band at 7600m before he descended to BC that day.

The three-man team started their summit push from BC on the 15th and went up to C2. On the 16th, Dujmovits went on up to C3 while Stihler and Pasang Nuru stayed in C2. The next day Dujmovits climbed to C4 at the South Col and the others moved up to C3.

Dujmovits had planned to go for the top from C4 at midnight of 17/18 May with the Swiss climber Ueli Steck, but Steck didn't attempt Everest. In any case, Dujmovits did not feel strong enough to climb higher than C4 without oxygen, so instead he descended to C2. At C2 he met Mrs. Kaltenbrunner and Goettler, who had come down from their ascent of Nuptse, and they went down to BC together.

Meanwhile, on the 18th Stihler and Pasang Nuru moved up to C4, and at 8:30 pm they left C4 for the summit. They reached the summit at 10:00 am on 19 May. Stihler descended to C3, but Pasang Nuru went only to C4 to look after a French woman, Nathalie Lamoureux.

Oxygen was used by Stihler from C4 to the summit to C4 and by Pasang Nuru from C3 to the top to C3. Dujmovits used none.

Sherpa:
Pasang Nuru, 17/5/74, Bupsa-4, Jubing, Solu, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1, Makalu X1


Report from Billi Bierling:

Summit team left C4 at 9 pm on 18 May. On the way up, they waited at the Hillary Step for about 1-1/2 hours. They spent about half hour on summit. On the way down they were stuck at the Hillary Step for 2 hours. They descended to C3, where Stihler arrived at 6:30 pm and Pasang, who was looking after Nathalie Lamoureux, at 1:30 am.

Following day Stihler descended to BC and Pasang and Nathalie to C2.

He left BC on 22 May and walked to Lukla.