원정 개요

The expedition personnel consisted of Mrs Shriya Shah, two Sherpas, Dawa Dendi and Temba, and Ganesh Thakuri, the head of her Kathmandu trekking agency, himself a climber, who was a paid participant in this group.

After C2 was established on 23 April, the weather turned bad, and Mrs Shah and her Sherpas went down to Dingboche village to rest and await better weather.

In mid-May, they were able to make their bid for the summit. They started up from BC on the 15th and reached C2, where they spent two nights. On the 17th, they established C3 and made C4 at the South Col on the 18th.

At 7:00 pm of the 18th, Mrs Shah and two Sherpas left C4 for the top. Mrs Shah had consistently been a slow climber, and there was a heavy traffic on the route that day, further slowing her progress. It was not until 2:30 pm in 19 May that Mrs Shah, Dawa Dendi and Temba reached the summit.

Meanwhile, Ganesh Thakuri had left C4 at 9:30 pm on the 18th and was on the top at 11:00 am on the 19th. He returned to C4 at 7:00 pm, have been held up for two hours at the Hillary Step in his descent.

Mrs Shah managed to get down to about 8450m, a little below the Balcony, at 10:45 am, but there she collapsed. When they had descended to the South Summit, she was seriously exhausted; her Sherpas, despite the wind that had blown up, had managed to get her lower by short-roping her and supporting her. But she couldn't move any more just below the Balcony, collapsed and died immediately. Her body was brought to Kathmandu on the 28th and cremated there in the presence of her husband, Bruce Klorfine, and other relatives. (She was born in Kathmandu and stayed with relatives when she came to Kathmandu for her climb).

Oxygen was used by Mrs Shah from C2 to the summit to her death. Thakuri use it from about 7500m to the top to 7500m. Temba used it from 7700m to the summit to C4; the other Sherpa, Dawa Dendi, used it from C4 to the top to C4.

The survivors spent the night of the 19th at C4, were in C2 on the 20th and the next day reached BC.

Sherpas:
Dawa Dendi, 14/4/77 (2/1/2024), Gudel-4, no 8000ers
Temba Bhote, 19/3/82 (6/12/2038), Takhola, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers

Trekking Agent:
Ganesh Thakuri, 5/8/82, Thulopakhar-7, Sindhupalchowk, no 8000ers