원정 개요

Summit on 25 May by Singh, Sharma, Sherpa, Nayan, Paneru, Sona, Ang Temba, Lhakpa and Mingma Sherpa at 3:30 am, Buthia at 4:05 am.

First attempt was intended to reach summit on 19 May. Rana, Bhutia, Sherpa, Nayan and Paneru left C4 on 18 May at 7:05 pm. The team reached 8200m, but it was very windy during their ascent and Rana decided to turn back. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 11 pm. On 19 May they descended to C2. The reason why not all of the members joined the first summit attempt was that Rana had split the team. The members who did not try for summit on 18 May were at C2.

Second summit team left C4 at 7:20 pm on 24 May. Weather was good, but winds picked up at around 11 pm. They spent about 15 minutes on top and started to descend at 4:20 am. When at 7 am Sharma reached the Hillary Step, he was snowblind. Rana was on the radio to Pasang and told him what to do. A little bit later, Temba caught up with them and both Sherpas tried to get Sharma to move, however, to no avail. When Sharma was not moving, they short-roped him to below the South Summit, which took them about six hours. At 1:40 pm they radioed Rana again and him that Sharma wanted to die. Rana talked to him on the radio and tried to motivate him to get up. He also told Temba to give Sharma an injection with Dexamethasone. Sharma slowly got better and his eyesight came back and at about 2:20 pm he started to walk again. Sharma finally arrived at C4 at 7 pm. He has slight frostbite on two fingers.

The other team members arrived at C4 between 11 am and noon.

On 26 May everyone was down at C2, and on 27 May at BC.

Rana was intending to paraglide down from the South Col, but the weather was too bad and he did not do it. However, he carried the parapent up and then down again.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C4 by members.
C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

Sherpas:
Sona, Chheskam-2, Solu, 26/11/77, Everest X1, Makalu X1
Ang Temba, Walung, Makalu-9, 29/5/1979, 1st 8000er
Lhakpa Sherpa, Walung, Makalu-9, 28/10/82
Mingma Temba Sherpa, Walung, Makalu-9, 28/4/88