Italian Dhaulagiri I Expedition
Dhaulagiri I · 2012 · 봄 (1) · Italy
원정 개요
BC 04 Apr 4700m
C1 08 Apr 5500m
C2 12 Apr 6600m
C3 16 May 7100m
Smt 17 May by Panzeri and Corona at 5:30 pm.
On the first summit attempt on 10 May, they reached C3 at 7100m, but the weather was too bad and they turned around after having set up C3.
On 17 May they left C3 at 12:30 am. Good weather, but deep snow. At 4 am they stopped at the traverse at 7300m as the wind was too strong, so they stopped and waited for the wind to abate. After one hour the wind stopped and they continued (other climbers, who were with them did not wait and went down). They got to the middle summit and ascended another 50m and reached the summit at 5:30 pm (they saw the German woman in the yellow bag??).
They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3. However, it was getting late and at midnight they made a bivouac at about 7300m - about 2-1/2 hours before C3. It was snowing and foggy.
At 4 am Mahdi from Iran stopped on his way up and they had a cup of tea. Team descended to BC at noon.
Corona has frostbite on both feet and two fingers on right hand.
The team was climbing with Dawa Sherpa (brother of Seven Summit's Mingma)
Oxygen: not taken, not used.
- 내부 원정 ID7531
- 원본 EXPIDDHA112110
- 대장Alberto Magliano
- 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도8167m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 7명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alberto Magliano | Italy | Leader | - | - | - |
| Simone Botta | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Giampaolo Corona | Italy | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Tarcisio Giordani | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Floriano Lenatti | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Mario Luciano Panzeri | Italy | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Sergio Valentini | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |