한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Italian Dhaulagiri I Expedition

Dhaulagiri I · 2012 · 봄 (1) · Italy

원정 개요

BC 04 Apr 4700m
C1 08 Apr 5500m
C2 12 Apr 6600m
C3 16 May 7100m
Smt 17 May by Panzeri and Corona at 5:30 pm.

On the first summit attempt on 10 May, they reached C3 at 7100m, but the weather was too bad and they turned around after having set up C3.

On 17 May they left C3 at 12:30 am. Good weather, but deep snow. At 4 am they stopped at the traverse at 7300m as the wind was too strong, so they stopped and waited for the wind to abate. After one hour the wind stopped and they continued (other climbers, who were with them did not wait and went down). They got to the middle summit and ascended another 50m and reached the summit at 5:30 pm (they saw the German woman in the yellow bag??).

They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3. However, it was getting late and at midnight they made a bivouac at about 7300m - about 2-1/2 hours before C3. It was snowing and foggy.

At 4 am Mahdi from Iran stopped on his way up and they had a cup of tea. Team descended to BC at noon.

Corona has frostbite on both feet and two fingers on right hand.

The team was climbing with Dawa Sherpa (brother of Seven Summit's Mingma)

Oxygen: not taken, not used.

  • 내부 원정 ID7531
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA112110
  • 대장Alberto Magliano
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8167m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Alberto MaglianoItalyLeader---
Simone BottaItalyClimber---
Giampaolo CoronaItalyClimber성공--
Tarcisio GiordaniItalyClimber---
Floriano LenattiItalyClimber---
Mario Luciano PanzeriItalyClimber성공--
Sergio ValentiniItalyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

연결된 원본 Reference가 없습니다.