원정 개요

BC at true site of Kangchung
Biv at true site of Dzasampa
Biv south of Nangpa La
Biv where Gyabrag Glacier turns south
Biv at standard ABC
High point on West Face.

Interested to consider climbing face east of "pa" in Nangpa Glacier of Schneider map, but after arrival at BC, found face was all blue ice which would have been possible to climb but required more equipment (including lots of ice screws) than had with them. Farrar went up on 23rd to make ABC but only 3 hrs from BC they were hit by heavy snowstorm, had to biv and overnight. 1m of snow fell, it continued next day and took party 11 hrs to struggle through 4-5 foot deep snow to BC. Houchin at this time down to Thami to resupply, snowed in at Thami one day and on down to Namche; also had bronchitis. Back to BC 28th. Farrar had limited time and with snow conditions as they were, he left BC on 28th. On 30th Bowen and Houchin and 2 Nepalese porters moved up to place just south of true site of Dzsampa. Stayed there and on 31st moved loads farther up Nangpa Glacier intending to climb either Messner or normal route. 31st again snowed but moved up on 1st (2 Nepalis, not really capable of handling these conditions and sirdar Kippa Sherpa had disappeared, so only 3 Americans now) to 5660m, just below Nangpa La, after deciding not to try Messner's icefall bad snow conditions. Another 4 inches of snow fell on night of 1st-2nd. On 2nd crosse Nangpa La and spent night at 5660m again, this time where Gyabrag Glacier turns south at "U" of Schneider map. Snowed again this night; had been carrying 35 kg loads and Ron's bad back giving trouble. Saw mountain plastered with snow and evidence of avalanching. Stayed there all of 3 April and that evening decided there was too much snow and would not go further. 4th all 3 men down to BC in one day in trail of a yak train. Sent mailrunner to Thami for Yaks on 5th and they were expected 5 days later.

On 28 March, yaks carrying resupply were able to get only 1 hr below BC because of deepness of snow.

On 6th Houchin, Kippa and 2 porters (1 Sherpa and 1 Gurung) went from BC to just below Nangpa La to make another try on mountain. Were stopped by snowstorm 30m below Nangpa La with one tent having been left beind. 7th went around glacier and reached standard ABC at 6000m on face across Gyabrag Glacier from pt. 6600m on Schneider map. 8th Houchin alone went up 100m on face in acclimatization climb in snowy and windy weather and back to camp - stayed in camp during bad weather of next two days and then weather was still bad with snow every day and strong wind at 6000m. Had hoped to go up to standard C1 site on 11th, but when clouds rolled in at 8:30 am, finally abandoned climb. Got back to BC on 12th having had problem with crevasse area south of Nangpa La. Met other member at Namche on 13th.